2008 Woodie Awards
An Ounce of Exertion Yields a Pound of Perspective
Chelsea Williams
Issue date: 10/23/06 Section: Life & Times
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This week, Venice revealed to me her hidden beauty. Instead of keeping the familiar landmarks of Piazza San Marco and the Ponte di Rialto in sight, I explored the edges of the city and unearthed a delight of the variety not found in beautiful art or architecture, but in people.
At first glance, Venice seems to be brimming with indulgences. Pastry shops, wine bars, chocolate stores, and gelato stands abound. If you look no further, these things are Venice, and they make for a scrumptious visit. Turn the corner and head down one of the innumerable back alleys, however, and you are sure to find a slice of reality amidst all the pizza.
To celebrate the Jewish holiday of Yom Kippur, I went to "Giudecca," the old Jewish ghetto, with a few of my Israeli friends. We attended service at a small synagogue and enjoyed a wonderful meal at a kosher restaurant afterwards. Though I am not Jewish, I have been exposed to the religious customs of several Jewish friends for many years at home, so I felt comfortable despite not knowing a word of Hebrew. The long service gave me time to observe a new segment of the Venetian population, one with a rich history and strong presence.
Giudecca is a quiet neighborhood far from the tourist centers, infused with a unique mix of Jewish and Italian cultures. On the one hand, it was intriguing to see the residential aspect of Venice that seems so absent from much of the city. Yet, the sad truth of poverty was more than apparent in the dilapidated buildings and malnourished children.
My visit to Giudecca was certainly not my first encounter with the life of the working class in Venice. In the evenings, after the bars shut down and the gondoliers cover their boats, locals can be found milling about smoking cigarettes and playing chess. I have even witnessed an arm-wrestling match among two elderly men and an impromptu singing session on a bridge. There is a bittersweet quality in this vivid cultural life, which lies beneath a daily routine that is marked by financial anxiety. Though its tourism industry is likely to keep it alive for many years to come, Venice is losing its native base, with fewer people being able to afford the costs of raising children here. Indeed, I have seen more elderly beggars than babies in my excursions thus far.
At first glance, Venice seems to be brimming with indulgences. Pastry shops, wine bars, chocolate stores, and gelato stands abound. If you look no further, these things are Venice, and they make for a scrumptious visit. Turn the corner and head down one of the innumerable back alleys, however, and you are sure to find a slice of reality amidst all the pizza.
To celebrate the Jewish holiday of Yom Kippur, I went to "Giudecca," the old Jewish ghetto, with a few of my Israeli friends. We attended service at a small synagogue and enjoyed a wonderful meal at a kosher restaurant afterwards. Though I am not Jewish, I have been exposed to the religious customs of several Jewish friends for many years at home, so I felt comfortable despite not knowing a word of Hebrew. The long service gave me time to observe a new segment of the Venetian population, one with a rich history and strong presence.
Giudecca is a quiet neighborhood far from the tourist centers, infused with a unique mix of Jewish and Italian cultures. On the one hand, it was intriguing to see the residential aspect of Venice that seems so absent from much of the city. Yet, the sad truth of poverty was more than apparent in the dilapidated buildings and malnourished children.
My visit to Giudecca was certainly not my first encounter with the life of the working class in Venice. In the evenings, after the bars shut down and the gondoliers cover their boats, locals can be found milling about smoking cigarettes and playing chess. I have even witnessed an arm-wrestling match among two elderly men and an impromptu singing session on a bridge. There is a bittersweet quality in this vivid cultural life, which lies beneath a daily routine that is marked by financial anxiety. Though its tourism industry is likely to keep it alive for many years to come, Venice is losing its native base, with fewer people being able to afford the costs of raising children here. Indeed, I have seen more elderly beggars than babies in my excursions thus far.
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